Editorial notes
Key Takeaways
The Integra ran from 1985 until 2006 across four generations, and they really do feel like different cars. The DA cars are the lightweight 80s coupes with pop-up headlights and the first VTEC engine in the JDM Si and SiR trims. The DC2 is the icon, with the Type R that set the FWD handling benchmark. The DC5 swapped the B-series for the K20A and went stiffer, heavier, and faster. The first-gen AV cars are interesting historically but not what most buyers are after.
- DC2/DB8 Type R is the value leader and most collectible
- Stock, rust-free cars command big premiums vs modified
- B18C/B16A reward maintenance; timing belt is critical
- RHD JDM supply is finite; 25-year rule boosts demand
- Rust/accident history are the biggest price killers
- USDM GS-R is a strong alternative to JDM Type R pricing
Technical Specifications
Every Integra is front-wheel drive. The AV cars run the 1.5 EW5 or 1.6 ZC. The DA and DC2 era cars get the B-series, with the B16A and B18C being the engines you actually want. The B18C in Type R tune makes 200 ps. The DC5 switched to the K20A i-VTEC, which makes 220 ps in JDM Type R spec. The 5-speed manual is the gearbox on the B-series cars and the DC5 Type R got a 6-speed.
Engine Options
| Chassis | Engine | Displacement | Power — JDM | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DC5 (USDM base RSX) | K20A3 | 2.0L | 160hp @ 6500rpm (estimated) | i-VTEC economy cam; 5MT/5AT |
| DC5 (USDM RSX Type-S) | K20A2 | 2.0L | 200hp @ 7400rpm (estimated) | i-VTEC performance; 6MT; 7900rpm redline |
| DC5 (JDM Integra Type R) | K20A | 2.0L | 220ps @ 8000rpm (estimated) | JDM Type R; high-lift cams; LSD; 8600rpm |
Transmission Options
| Type | Ratios | Availability | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5-speed Manual | varies by engine/market | Most trims (1985-2006) | Cable/hydraulic by era; close ratios on sport |
| 4-speed Automatic | varies by engine/market | Many non-Type R trims | Hydraulic/ECT by era; not on most Type R |
| 6-speed Manual | varies by model | DC5/DE5 Type S/Type R | Close ratio; LSD on Type R |
| 5-speed Automatic | varies by model | DC5 base/iS, some JDM iS | SportShift on some markets |
Livability
- Headroom
- 37.5"
- Low roof; tall drivers may brush head with helmet
- Rear Seats
- Tight 2+2
- Adults fit short trips; legroom limited behind tall driver
- Cargo
- 12-16 cu ft
- Hatchbacks practical; coupes/sedans less flexible
Early builds of this chassis became eligible for US import under the 25-year rule in 2026; later production years become eligible through 2031. Calculate import costs →
Variants & Trims
The trim that matters most on the Integra is Type R. The JDM DC2 Type R got the hand-ported B18C, a helical LSD, a seam-welded shell, and a curb weight near 1,100 kg. The USDM Acura Integra Type R is similar but the JDM car got more aggressive cams, higher compression, and a 200 ps rating versus 195 hp on the Acura. The non-Type R SiR, GS-R, and Si-VTEC trims share the same chassis and most of the suspension hardware, which is why they're the value play.
| Generation | Trim | Engine | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra iS (JDM/EDM) | K20A3/K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | i-VTEC, 5MT/5AT, comfort sport mix |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type S (USDM Acura RSX Type-S) | K20A2 2.0 i-VTEC | 200hp class, 6MT, sport suspension, 4W disc |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC5) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | Type R, LSD, Brembo, Recaro, close 6MT |
| DC5 (5th gen JDM/EDM/USDM) | Integra Type R (JDM DC5 '05+) | K20A 2.0 i-VTEC | facelift, revised ECU, LSD, Brembo, 6MT |
Should You Buy a Honda Integra DC5?
The Integra is a Honda, so you get the usual upside. Cheap parts, easy mechanical work, engines that take a beating, and an aftermarket that can build you anything. The downsides are also Honda problems. Theft, rust on the rear quarters, an interior that didn't age well, and front-wheel drive that some buyers see as a dealbreaker. None of it is a surprise once you've owned one.
Why You'll Love It
- Type R benchmark handlingDC2/DC5 Type R deliver sharp turn-in, balance, and feedback; still a FWD reference point.
- High-rev VTEC characterB16/B18 and K20A reward revs; engaging power delivery with strong motorsport heritage.
- Strong reliability when maintainedEngines/drivetrains are durable with proper timing belt, oiling, cooling, and quality parts.
- Huge parts & community supportExcellent OEM/aftermarket availability, knowledge base, and tuning solutions worldwide.
- Usable classic performancePractical hatch/sedan packaging, good visibility, and low running costs vs many JDM rivals.
- Collector upside for clean carsUnmodified, documented Type R and GS-R/SiR examples show sustained demand and liquidity.
Why You Might Not
- Rust is a major value killerRear quarters, sills, floors, strut towers, and subframes rust; repairs are costly and visible.
- Many are modified or abusedTrack/drift/stance builds, engine swaps, and poor wiring reduce value and reliability.
- Theft risk and insurance issuesHigh theft rates for Type R/GS-R parts; consider immobilizers, trackers, and secure storage.
- Aging interior & trim scarcityOEM Recaros, dash plastics, weatherstrips, and Type R-specific bits can be expensive to source.
- Import compliance complexityRHD/JDM imports need careful paperwork, emissions/state rules, and parts compatibility checks.
- FWD limits vs RWD rivalsTorque steer and traction limits appear with power mods; big builds need LSD and chassis work.
Who Should NOT Buy This
- Anyone needing modern crash safety and airbags
- Buyers who can't tolerate 25+ year old car issues
- People without a trusted Honda/JDM specialist shop
- Drivers who need quiet cabin and zero rattles
- Those who require perfect A/C in hot climates
- Owners who can't budget $1k-3k for surprise repairs
- People who must pass strict emissions inspections
- California residents if engine swap/cat not compliant
- Anyone who won't do frequent fluid maintenance
- Buyers who hate stiff ride on Type R/coilovers
- Tall drivers over 6'2" wanting helmet clearance
- Families needing real rear seats and easy child seats
- People who park outside in rust/salt environments
- Anyone expecting theft-proof ownership without effort
- Buyers who want stock, unmodified examples cheaply
- Those unwilling to walk from poorly done mods/swaps
- People who need automatic-only convenience
- Owners who can't store it securely (high theft risk)
- Anyone expecting cheap OEM parts for rare JDM trims
- Drivers who won't accept premium fuel requirements
Common Issues & Solutions
The Integra is a tough car mechanically. Most of what goes wrong on one is age, not design. The rear quarter panels rust. The taillight gaskets leak and the trunk gets wet. The door locks and other electronics get flaky. Oil seeps from the valve cover gasket and the cam seals. The B and K series engines themselves rarely cause trouble if the timing belt or chain has been kept on top of.
| Issue | Cause | Solution | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2nd/3rd gear synchro grind | Worn synchros from hard shifting/old fluid | Rebuild trans w/synchros; use correct MTF | $1200-3000 |
| Manual trans input bearing whine | Bearing wear, low/dirty fluid, high mileage | Transmission rebuild; replace bearings/seals | $1500-3500 |
| Clutch slip or chatter | Worn disc/pressure plate; oil contamination | Replace clutch kit; resurface flywheel; fix leaks | $700-1600 |
| Rear main seal oil leak | Aged seal; crankcase pressure; high mileage | Replace rear main seal during clutch service | $600-1400 |
| VTEC solenoid gasket leak | Hardened gasket and screen clogging | Replace gasket/screen; clean; verify oil pressure | $80-250 |
| Cam seal/cap oil leak | Aged seals; poor prior service; crankcase pressure | Replace cam seals/cap seal; reseal as needed | $200-600 |
| Oil pan seep/leak | Old RTV, pan dents, over-torqued bolts | Reseal pan; straighten/replace if dented | $200-500 |
| Blue smoke on decel | Valve stem seals worn from age/heat | Replace valve seals; inspect guides; valve job if needed | $900-2200 |
| Blue smoke on accel | Worn rings/cylinder wear; poor maintenance | Engine rebuild or replacement long block | $2500-7000 |
| Idle hunting/surging | Dirty IACV/FITV, vacuum leaks, TB carbon | Clean/repair IACV/FITV; smoke test; base idle set | $150-600 |
| Random misfire at idle | Bad plugs/wires/coil, valve lash, grounds | Tune-up; adjust valves; repair grounds/wiring | $150-800 |
| Valve lash noise/tick | Valves out of adjustment; neglected service | Adjust valve lash; inspect cam lobes | $200-500 |
| Timing belt overdue (B-series) | Skipped service interval; unknown history | Replace belt, tensioner, water pump, seals | $600-1200 |
| Timing chain/tensioner wear | K-series tensioner wear; low oil; high miles | Replace chain/tensioner/guides; inspect VTC gear | $900-2200 |
| Overheating in traffic | Bad fan switch/relay, clogged rad, stuck thermostat | Diagnose fans; replace radiator/thermostat as needed | $250-900 |
| Radiator end tank crack | Aged plastic tanks; heat cycling | Replace radiator and cap; bleed system properly | $250-650 |
| Head gasket failure | Prior overheating; detonation; poor tune | Head gasket job; check head flatness; new bolts | $1200-2800 |
| Heater core leak | Corrosion/age; coolant neglect | Replace heater core; flush system; new hoses | $800-1600 |
| Power steering pump whine | Old fluid, pump wear, suction leak at O-ring | Replace O-ring; flush; rebuild/replace pump | $80-600 |
| Steering rack leak/play | Worn seals/bushings; torn boots; age | Replace/reseal rack; align; replace tie rods | $700-1600 |
| Front LCA bushing failure | Aged rubber; lowered cars stress bushings | Replace bushings or arms; align afterward | $300-900 |
| Ball joint wear/failure | Age, torn boots, lowered suspension angles | Replace ball joints/arms immediately; safety item | $250-800 |
| Wheel bearing hum | Bearing wear; track use; impacts | Replace hub/bearing; check knuckle condition | $300-900 |
| CV axle vibration/click | Worn joints; torn boots; cheap reman axles | Use quality axles; replace seals; torque axle nut | $250-700 |
| Brake caliper slider seize | Lack of grease; torn boots; corrosion | Rebuild/replace calipers; new hardware; flush fluid | $250-800 |
| Rusty brake hard lines | Road salt; aged coatings; neglected underbody | Replace lines; inspect hoses; full bleed | $400-1200 |
| ABS sensor/wiring faults | Broken sensor wires; rust at tone rings | Repair wiring; replace sensors; clean tone rings | $200-900 |
| Hatch/trunk water leaks | Bad seals, tail light gaskets, clogged drains | Replace seals/gaskets; clear drains; reseal seams | $100-600 |
| Sunroof drain overflow | Clogged drains; cracked drain tubes | Clear/replace drains; dry interior; treat mold | $100-500 |
| Floor/spare well rust | Chronic water intrusion; salt exposure | Cut/patch weld; treat rust; fix leak source | $500-2500 |
| Rear quarter/arch rust | Trapped debris in arch lip; poor prior repairs | Proper metal repair; avoid filler-only fixes | $800-4000 |
| Cracked dash/rattles | UV exposure; age; prior interior removal | Dash cap/replace; add clips/foam for rattles | $150-1200 |
| Window regulator failure | Worn cables/plastic guides; dry tracks | Replace regulator; lube tracks; check switches | $200-500 |
| Door lock actuator weak | Motor wear; sticky linkages; low voltage | Replace actuator; service linkage; verify grounds | $150-450 |
| Alternator weak/charging drop | Worn brushes/diodes; heat; oil contamination | Replace alternator; fix oil leaks; belt tension | $250-650 |
| Aftermarket wiring gremlins | Alarm/audio hacks; poor grounds; twisted splices | Remove hacks; re-pin/repair harness; add grounds | $200-1500 |
| Engine swap integration issues | Wrong ECU/harness; sensor mismatch; bad mounts | Correct ECU/harness; proper mounts; professional tune | $500-4000 |
| Catalyst missing/clogged | Stolen cat; cheap exhaust; rich tune melts cat | Install correct cat; fix fueling; new O2 sensors | $300-1800 |
| O2 sensor slow response | Aged sensor; exhaust leaks; wiring damage | Fix leaks; replace O2; verify fuel trims | $150-450 |
| Fuel pump whining/failure | Old pump; clogged sock; running low on fuel often | Replace pump/filter; clean tank if contaminated | $250-700 |
| Fuel smell/leaking lines | Aged rubber lines; cracked filler neck hoses | Replace hoses/clamps; inspect hard lines | $150-600 |
| Engine mounts torn | Age; aggressive driving; stiff aftermarket mounts | Replace mounts; avoid ultra-stiff street setups | $250-900 |
| Exhaust manifold crack/leak | Heat cycling; thin aftermarket headers | Weld/replace manifold; new gaskets; check studs | $200-900 |
| A/C weak or inop | Leaks at seals; compressor wear; condenser damage | Leak test; replace failed parts; evacuate/recharge | $300-1500 |
Differences between JDM & USDM
The Honda Integra (JDM) and Acura Integra (USDM/Canada/Mexico) share the same chassis codes and core hardware, but the Type R lineage diverged significantly. In Japan, the Integra Type R was a continuous JDM offering from August 1995 (DC2 96-spec) through July 2006 (DC5 final-run). In the United States, the Acura Integra Type R was sold only across 1997, 1998, 2000, and 2001 — Honda paused USDM production in 1999. The USDM B18C5 (Type R) is mechanically nearly identical to the JDM B18C (Type R) — both hand-ported, both helical LSD — but the JDM car has slightly more aggressive cams, a higher redline (8,500 vs 8,400 rpm), the 4-piston front Brembo in 98-spec form, and quieter exhaust tuning to suit Japanese noise regulations. The DC5 split was sharper: Japan got the K20A-powered DC5 Integra Type R with 220 ps, while the United States received only the Acura RSX (DC5 chassis) with the K20A2 in Type-S form (200 hp) — there was no USDM Acura RSX Type R. The DC5 generation never sold in the United States under either the Honda or Acura Integra name. RHD applies to all JDM Integras; LHD applies to all USDM and Canadian Acura Integras.
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
Walk this list with the seller, not in front of them. The Critical items mean walking away if there's no paperwork backing them up. The High items can usually be priced into the deal. On any Integra, the rust check on the rear quarters and the timing belt history on the B-series matter more than anything else. Type R cars need an extra pass for swap evidence, since an engine swap on a Type R is a value killer.
Critical Priority
High Priority
Medium Priority
Low Priority
Generation History
1st Gen DA1/DA2/DA3 (1985-1989)
- Pop-up headlamps; early sporty Honda coupe
- D-series/ZC engines; light curb weights
- Period-correct classic; limited US collector focus
2nd Gen DA/DB (1989-1993)
- First widely loved Integra shape; double wishbone
- B16A VTEC in JDM; strong aftermarket support
- Rust and age are primary concerns today
3rd Gen DC/DB (1993-2001)
- Peak Integra era; DC2/DB8 chassis is the icon
- Type R (JDM/USDM) sets benchmark for FWD handling
- B18C variants; huge parts ecosystem and tuning scene
4th Gen DC5 (2001-2006)
- K-series era; Type R with K20A i-VTEC
- More rigid, modern; different feel vs DC2
- JDM DC5R values strong; USDM RSX Type-S cheaper
Market Data
The trim that matters most on the Integra is Type R. The JDM DC2 Type R got the hand-ported B18C, a helical LSD, a seam-welded shell, and a curb weight near 1,100 kg. The USDM Acura Integra Type R is similar but the JDM car got more aggressive cams, higher compression, and a 200 ps rating versus 195 hp on the Acura. The non-Type R SiR, GS-R, and Si-VTEC trims share the same chassis and most of the suspension hardware, which is why they're the value play.
Production Numbers & Rarity
| Variant | Years | Units built | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| DC2 Type R (JDM, 1st batch) | 1995–1996 | 4,786 | Highest-spec; red interior; club license |
| DC2 Type R (JDM, 2nd batch) | 1996–1998 | 5,560 | |
| DC2 Type R (JDM, 3rd batch) | 1998–2001 | 5,200 | Championship white available; minor detuning vs 1st gen |
Rarest variant: Integra Type R (DA)
Motorsport Heritage
| Series | Years | Result | Car | Driver |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BTCC (British Touring Car Championship) | 1995–1999 | Multiple podiums; works Honda/Mugen program | Honda Integra (works BTCC) | James Thompson / David Brabham |
Sources: BTCC historical records
Original MSRP & Pricing
Original MSRP: $11,280 at launch in 1986. USDM Acura Integra RS three-door launch price for the 1986 model year (source: Wikipedia Acura Integra entry; period MotorTrend). 1997 USDM Acura Integra Type R launched at $23,800. JDM launch pricing was set in yen and varied by trim; the USDM dollar figure is the most-cited launch benchmark.
How It Compares
The Integra sits in an odd spot. It's faster than most hot hatches, lighter than the sports cars in its price bracket, and front-wheel drive in a segment that's mostly rear-wheel drive. The table below leans toward the Integra's strengths because that's where it actually wins, on chassis discipline, parts availability, and the way a stock Type R drives versus anything else with two driven wheels.
| Feature | DC5 | Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T | Toyota Supra JZA80 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Layout/Drive | FWD, I4 NA | RWD, I6 TT | RWD, I6 NA/TT |
| Icon trim | DC2/DB8 Type R | FD3S Type R/RS | Evo IV-VI GSR/RS |
| Power (stock) | DC2R ~197hp (JDM) | FD3S ~255hp (JDM) | Evo V ~276hp (JDM) |
| Weight (approx) | DC2R ~2,350 lb | FD3S ~2,800 lb | Evo V ~3,000 lb |
| Handling feel | Light, precise, playful | Balanced, RWD, boosty | AWD grip, heavier nose |
| Engine family | B-series / K-series | 13B-REW rotary | SR20DET turbo I4 |
| Reliability baseline | High if maintained | Higher upkeep (rotary) | Good; turbo adds heat |
| Running costs | Low-moderate | Moderate-high | Moderate-high |
| Tuning headroom | NA gains modest; swaps | Big gains w/ boost | Big gains w/ boost |
| Collector demand | Very strong (Type R) | Strong (clean turbo cars) | Strong (halo model) |
| Practicality | Hatch/sedan, usable | Coupe, tight rear | 2+2, larger footprint |
| USDM counterpart | Integra GS-R / Type R | Civic Si/SiR | RSX Type-S |
| Track-day value | Excellent consumables | Higher tire/brake costs | Higher tire/brake costs |
Comparable Alternatives
If the Integra doesn't end up being the right car, the natural alternatives are the Honda Civic EK9 Type R if you want the hot hatch version of the same idea, or the Acura RSX Type-S if you want a DC5 chassis car at a fraction of JDM Type R money. The Acura Integra Type R is the same DC2 with US specs and easier paperwork. The Nissan Silvia S15 is the obvious sideways step if front-wheel drive is the dealbreaker.
Acura Integra Type R
USDM DC2R; LHD, easier parts; still pricey
Acura RSX Type-S
K20 power, modern chassis; cheaper than JDM DC5R
In Pictures
The Buyer's Read
If you're buying an Integra, the first question is whether you want a Type R or just an Integra — the conversations are different. A clean, documented DC2 Type R is the icon of the model and prices reflect that: expect $60,000 plus for a USDM ITR in original paint, and $80,000 to $100,000 plus for a JDM 98-spec or 00-spec car. Modifications kill value harder on the Type R than anywhere else in the Honda range, so the cars worth targeting are unmolested with seam-welds intact, no swap, and a documented timing belt history.
If you don't need the Type R badge, the GS-R and SiR cars are the value play: same chassis, most of the suspension hardware, and the B18C in non-Type R tune making 170 to 180 hp. Budget $10,000 to $20,000 for a clean DC2 GS-R or JDM SiR-G. The USDM Acura RSX Type-S uses the K20A2 at 200 hp and trades around $10,000 to $20,000 for tidy examples; JDM DC5 Type R cars sit at $40,000 to $70,000 for clean low-mile examples.
The Integra to pass on is a cheap modified one with no paperwork. Rust on the rear quarters is the deal-breaker — if the arches are bubbling or the rear bumper is sagging, the repair requires welding, not filler, and the cost doesn't come back in resale.
Any Type R with swap evidence, missing seam-welds, or an unrecorded track history is also a pass. A documented, original Integra is worth waiting for; a cheap one almost always costs more than the patient buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Which Integra is the most collectible?
- The DC2/DB8 Type R is top. Next: clean GS-R/SiR and JDM DC5 Type R with documentation.
- What are typical problem areas to inspect?
- Check rust, accident repairs, timing belt history, oil leaks, cooling system, and worn bushings/ball joints.
- Are JDM Type R cars better than USDM?
- JDM DC2R often has spec differences and cachet, but condition matters most. USDM ITR can be easier to own.
- How much does modification hurt value?
- Heavily modified cars usually sell for less. OEM+ with receipts may be acceptable; cut wiring and swaps hurt most.
- What maintenance is non-negotiable?
- Timing belt/water pump, quality oil, valve adjustment, fresh coolant, and addressing suspension wear are essential.
- Is the Integra good for track days?
- Yes—great chassis and low consumable costs. Prioritize brakes, cooling, quality tires, and an LSD if needed.
- What drives Integra prices the most?
- Trim (Type R), originality, rust-free shell, mileage, documentation, and rare OEM parts (Recaros, aero, wheels).
- When is it US-legal to import?
- Under the 25-year rule, eligibility depends on build month/year. For example, 1999 cars become legal in 2024.
Sources & References
Sources (15)
- Honda Integra — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
- Honda Integra Type R — model history and specifications — WikipediaVerified
- Honda B engine family reference — WikipediaVerified
- Honda K engine family reference — WikipediaVerified
- VTEC — Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control — WikipediaVerified
- Honda Civic Type R — sister Type R lineage — WikipediaVerified
- Honda / Acura Integra Type R auction results — Bring a TrailerVerified
- Honda Integra market comps and sale data — Classic.comVerified
- Acura Integra market comps — Classic.comVerified
- Honda Integra owner technical community — Honda-TechVerified
- Honda Integra review archive — CarsGuideVerified
- Spoon Sports — long-time Integra tuner-house — Spoon SportsVerified
- Mugen Motorsports — works tuner — MugenVerified
- Garage Dreams — Integra buyer's-guide reference — Garage DreamsVerified
- The Motorhood — period road-test archive — The MotorhoodVerified
Sources last verified: