Chassis Code Explained
| Segment | Meaning | Detail |
|---|---|---|
| V | Engine series | V — V-series V8 engine (5M-based and derivatives) |
| G | Model | G — Century model designation |
| 45 | Variant code | 45 — VG45 extended-wheelbase L-type variant (1990–1997) |
The VG45 'L-type' is the longest-wheelbase first-generation Century, introduced in 1990 as a chauffeur-focused variant. The standard first-generation codes run VG20/VG30/VG35; all used inline-V8 configurations.
Editorial notes
Key Takeaways
The Century ran three generations from 1967 until now, and each one stayed in production for roughly twenty years. The G20 through G40 covers the first thirty years on a V8. The G50 is the V12 car most people think of. The G60 is the current hybrid V8 and it still looks like a 1967 Century on purpose.
- VG40 (1997-2017) is the value sweet spot
- GZG50 V12 is most collectible and costly
- Condition & provenance drive price more than miles
- Parts/support best for VG40; V12 parts pricier
- Export demand is lifting clean examples
- Not a sports sedan; buy for comfort and presence
Should You Buy a Toyota Century VG45?
The Century is a car where you have to want what it actually is. Toyota built it for the back seat, not the driver's seat, and that choice shapes every trade-off below. If you're buying a Century to drive yourself around, you're buying the wrong car.
Why You'll Love It
- Unmatched ride isolationBuilt for silence: thick insulation, soft tuning, and low NVH calibration.
- Flagship build qualityHand-finished details, durable materials, and conservative engineering for longevity.
- Timeless, discreet presenceUnderstated styling and formal proportions; prestige without flash.
- Strong JDM cultural cachetUsed by executives and officials; high desirability among collectors.
- VG40 parts & serviceabilityMore shared Toyota-era components; easier ownership than many exotics.
- V12 smoothness (GZG50)1GZ-FE delivers turbine-like refinement; unique among Japanese sedans.
- Comfort-focused rear cabinRear amenities, soft-close features, and limo-like seating priorities.
Why You Might Not
- Not performance-orientedHeavy, comfort-tuned chassis; slow steering and soft damping vs sport sedans.
- V12 ownership costs1GZ-FE parts, sensors, and labor can be expensive; fewer specialists outside Japan.
- Aging electronics/trimOlder navigation, displays, and climate modules can be dated or hard to source.
- Fuel economy & running costsLarge displacement and weight mean high fuel use; tires/brakes are not cheap.
- Rust and storage issuesJapan coastal storage can mean underbody corrosion; inspect seams and subframes.
- Import compliance complexity25-year rule timing, paperwork, and parts labeling can complicate US ownership.
- Limited aftermarket supportFew performance or restoration vendors vs common JDM icons; OEM is key.
Who Should NOT Buy This
- Anyone needing cheap, fast parts availability
- People without a trusted JDM-capable shop
- Owners who can't tolerate downtime for parts
- Drivers wanting modern infotainment/CarPlay
- Those expecting Lexus-level dealer support
- Anyone on a tight fuel budget (especially V12)
- People who won't proactively replace aged rubber
- Buyers who can't store it indoors (rust risk)
- Salt-belt daily drivers without underbody care
- Anyone who hates diagnosing old electronics
- People needing strong A/C in extreme heat ASAP
- Drivers who want sporty handling or sharp brakes
- Short-trip only users; it hates constant cold runs
- Anyone who won't do preventive cooling service
- Buyers expecting easy emissions compliance everywhere
- People who need LHD or easy drive-thru usability
- Anyone who can't budget $3k-8k catch-up service
- Those who can't accept Japan-only nav/TV features
- People who need a lightweight city car
- Owners who won't learn import paperwork/insurance
Common Issues & Solutions
The Century is mechanically overbuilt, but the V12 and the air suspension and the JDM-only electronics all age in ways that get expensive outside Japan. Most of the trouble comes from parts supply and labor cost, not the engineering itself. A documented car with a recent timing belt service on the V12 is worth a lot more than a cheap one without paperwork.
| Issue | Cause | Solution | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air suspension leaks/sag | Aged air strut bags, cracked lines, O-rings | Replace struts/lines; rebuild valves; calibrate | $2000-7000 |
| Air compressor overrun/fail | System leaks make compressor run hot and wear | Fix leaks first; replace compressor + dryer | $800-2500 |
| Height sensor faults | Seized linkages, corroded sensor tracks | Free/replace sensors; align and recalibrate | $300-1200 |
| V12 timing belt overdue | Deferred service; unknown history on imports | Belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, seals | $1500-3500 |
| Cooling system brittle plastics | Age heat-cycles crack radiator tanks/fittings | Radiator, hoses, thermostat, cap; flush | $600-1800 |
| Heater control valve leak | Aged diaphragm/seals; corrosion at fittings | Replace valve and hoses; bleed system | $300-900 |
| Heater core seep/odor | Internal corrosion; neglected coolant changes | Replace core; flush; new coolant and hoses | $900-2500 |
| Valve cover gasket leaks | Hardened gaskets; crankcase pressure/PCV clog | Gaskets + grommets; service PCV/breathers | $400-1200 |
| Front cover/cam seal leaks | Aged seals; belt service skipped too long | Reseal during timing belt service | $600-1800 |
| Fuel hose/line seep | Old rubber, ethanol exposure, clamp fatigue | Replace all soft lines; inspect hard lines | $300-1200 |
| Injector leakage/misfire | Aged injector seals or varnish from storage | Ultrasonic clean or replace; new seals | $500-2500 |
| Ignition coil/plug issues | Age, oil in plug wells, long service intervals | Plugs + coils as needed; fix oil leaks first | $400-1800 |
| Alternator weak/charging | Age, heat, high electrical load at idle | Replace alternator; check grounds and battery | $400-1200 |
| Parasitic battery drain | Aging modules, trunk moisture, stuck relays | Draw test; repair water leak; replace module/relay | $200-1500 |
| Soft-close door failure | Worn pull-in motor/gears; latch misadjustment | Adjust latch; rebuild/replace pull-in unit | $400-2000 |
| Window regulator slow/fail | Dry tracks, worn motor/regulator cables | Clean/lube tracks; replace regulator/motor | $250-900 |
| Climate control blend door | Servo motor failure or cracked door linkage | Replace servo; repair linkage; recalibrate | $300-1500 |
| A/C leak or weak cooling | Old O-rings, condenser corrosion, compressor wear | Leak test; replace failed parts; evac/recharge | $500-2500 |
| Rear A/C blower failure | Worn blower motor or resistor pack | Replace blower/resistor; clean ducts | $300-1200 |
| Steering rack leak | Aged seals; contaminated fluid; torn boots | Rebuild/replace rack; flush PS system | $900-2500 |
| PS pump whine/leak | Worn pump bearings/seals; low fluid from leaks | Fix leaks; replace pump; flush fluid | $400-1400 |
| Control arm bushing wear | Age and weight; rubber cracks and separates | Replace arms/bushings; alignment afterward | $600-2500 |
| Brake caliper slide seize | Corrosion, old grease, infrequent use | Service slides; rebuild/replace calipers | $300-1200 |
| Brake hard line corrosion | Road salt; undercoat traps moisture | Replace lines; inspect ABS unit fittings | $600-2500 |
| Wheel bearing noise | Age, water intrusion, heavy curb impacts | Replace hub/bearing assemblies | $300-1200 |
| Transmission shift flare | Old ATF, solenoid wear, valve body varnish | Service ATF; solenoids/valve body as needed | $300-2500 |
| Transmission mount collapse | Rubber deterioration; heavy drivetrain | Replace mounts; inspect driveshaft angles | $250-900 |
| Driveshaft center bearing | Rubber carrier cracks; age and heat | Replace center bearing/support; balance shaft | $400-1200 |
| Exhaust rot/leaks | Condensation + salt; thin OEM sections | Replace sections; use stainless where possible | $600-3000 |
| Catalyst rattle/efficiency | Substrate breakup from age/misfire | Fix misfire; replace cats; new O2 sensors | $800-4000 |
| O2 sensor aging | Heat cycles; slow response causes poor trims | Replace upstream sensors; clear trims | $250-900 |
| Trunk water intrusion | Tail lamp seals, trunk gasket, body seam cracks | Reseal lamps/seams; replace gasket; dry modules | $150-1200 |
| Sunroof drain overflow | Clogged drains; cracked drain tubes | Clear/replace drains; dry interior thoroughly | $150-900 |
| Wood trim cracking/fade | UV exposure, heat, age; lacquer delamination | Refinish wood; source used pieces carefully | $400-3000 |
| Seat control switch failure | Worn contacts; spilled drinks; oxidation | Clean/repair switch; replace if needed | $150-800 |
| Aging rubber everywhere | Storage and age harden seals and bushings | Budget full rubber refresh over first 12 months | $800-5000 |
| Parts availability delays | Century-specific parts; Japan-only supply chain | Use JDM suppliers; buy spares; plan downtime | $0-2000 |
Differences between JDM & USDM
The Toyota Century was never sold outside Japan as a regular production model. There is no factory USDM, EUDM, or AUDM equivalent — no badge-engineered Lexus or Toyota export twin, unlike the Celsior/LS or Aristo/GS. The only Centuries that legally left Japan in period were a small number of ambassadorial cars (often fitted with the CNG-fuelled 1GZ-FNE V12 in place of the JDM-market 1GZ-FE) and experimental units sent for evaluation in markets including the United States. Every Century in private foreign hands today reached its market under the relevant country's classic-vehicle import rules — in the US, the 25-year FMVSS exemption (so 1997 G50s became legal in 2022, 1998s in 2023, and so on; the G60 generation does not yet have any examples eligible). RHD is the only factory configuration; LHD Centuries are conversions or one-off experimental cars. Cabin controls, navigation displays, and signal-TV tuners are labelled in Japanese and operate on the Japanese broadcast standard — JDM nav and TV head units do not function in North America without replacement. For the same reasons, the Imperial Household's bespoke Century Royal (G51) — four hand-built units, 2006–2008, used as Japan's official state car — was never offered for export at any price.
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
Walk this list before you commit, not after. The Critical items mean walking away if the seller can't back them up with paperwork. The V12 timing belt and the air suspension are the two big-ticket items that decide whether a cheap Century stays cheap. Underbody rust on a Japan-stored car is the other one that catches people out.
Critical Priority
High Priority
Medium Priority
Low Priority
Generation History
1st Gen Century (VG20) (1967-1997)
- Toyota’s original chauffeur flagship
- V8 power; comfort-first tuning
- Long production run; low export presence
- Best as collector/heritage purchase
2nd Gen Century (VG40) (1997-2017)
- 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 flagship option
- Also 4.0L/5.0L V8 variants by year/market
- Iconic upright styling; extreme NVH focus
- Strongest import demand; best parts support
3rd Gen Century (G60) (2018-present)
- 5.0L V8 hybrid (2UR-FSE-based system)
- Modern safety/infotainment; still discreet
- Most expensive; limited supply outside Japan
- Chauffeur-first rear cabin upgrades
Market Data
The Century has almost no trim ladder. Toyota built it as one car with options layered on top, not as a base model and a top model. The differences you'll see are wheelbase, rear seat package, and on the G50 whether you got the V12 or one of the rare ambassadorial CNG cars. Special-order Imperial Household specs exist but you won't be buying one of those.
Production Numbers & Rarity
| Generation | Years | Total Built | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1st Gen (VG; 1967-1997) | 1967-1997 | estimated | Long-run low-volume; exact totals not public |
| 2nd Gen (G50; 1997-2017) | 1997-2017 | estimated | Hand-built low volume; exact totals not public |
| 3rd Gen (G60; 2018-present) | 2018-present | estimated | Low volume; annual figures not fully disclosed |
| Century SUV (U70; 2023-present) | 2023-present | estimated | Very low volume; production constrained |
How It Compares
Among JDM flagship sedans, the Century is the most isolated and the most formal. The President is similar in mission but rarer and harder to find parts for. The Celsior is easier to live with but doesn't carry the same presence. The table below leans toward what the Century actually does well, which is silence, ride quality, and rear seat comfort.
| Feature | VG45 | Nissan President JHG50 | Honda Legend KA9 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Core mission | Chauffeur luxury, NVH | Sport-luxury flagship | Executive luxury, tech |
| Engine layout | V8/V12/V8 hybrid | V8 | V6 |
| Top-tier engine | 5.0L 1GZ-FE V12 | 4.5L/4.1L VH V8 | 3.5L C35A V6 |
| Drivetrain | RWD (most) | RWD | FWD |
| Ride character | Soft, isolated | Softer but less isolated | Tauter, more road feel |
| Cabin noise | Class-leading quiet | Very quiet | Quiet, less limo-like |
| Rear-seat focus | High (chauffeur) | High | Medium |
| Prestige in Japan | Top-tier domestic icon | High, less iconic | High, more modern image |
| Collectibility | High (V12/rare specs) | Moderate | Moderate to low |
| Parts availability | Good VG40; V12 mixed | Mixed | Fair |
| Typical buyer cross-shop | JDM flagship collectors | VIP sedan fans | Euro luxury importers |
| Power output | V12 ~276 hp (JDM era) | VH45DE ~278 hp | M119 V8 315-322 hp |
| Driving feel | Floaty, serene | More responsive | Heavy, bank-vault |
Comparable Alternatives
If the Century doesn't make sense, the closest JDM substitute is the Nissan President. It's the only other car built for the same buyer. The Celsior is what you buy if you want the comfort and the V8 without the chauffeur theatre. The W140 S-Class is the European version of the same idea with global parts support.
Mercedes S-Class W140
Same era bank-vault luxury; global support
Infiniti Q45 G50
Japanese V8 flagship with sharper dynamics
In Pictures
The Buyer's Read
The Century makes sense from the back seat. Buyers who purchase one expecting a driver's car — in the mold of a Celsior or Lexus LS — typically end up regretting it; both do that job better for less money.
The safest entry is a documented G50 V12 with the timing belt already done and the air suspension either healthy or converted to coils. Budget $30,000 to $40,000 for a clean example and another $5,000 to $8,000 in the first year for catch-up service. The 1GZ-FE itself is not the expensive part; the parts around it are, especially when you're sourcing from Japan on lead times.
The VG40 V8 first-generation cars are the cheap entry point, but cheap is relative. A $12,000 VG40 with no service records will surface deferred work: wood trim cracks, soft-close motors fail, the heater control valve leaks, and underbody rust on Japan-stored cars is not always visible on first inspection. Pay the premium for documented service history; it's still less expensive than correcting a neglected G50.
The Century to avoid outside Japan is a rough G50 from coastal storage. The air suspension, the JDM nav and TV unit, the climate LCD, the soft-close door modules, and the rear seat controls age in parallel — when they begin failing together, the repair total outruns the car's value. A clean, documented G50 is a different calculation.
The G60 hybrid does not qualify under the 25-year rule for most buyers today. Any G60 for sale outside Japan warrants a close look at how it left the country.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Which Toyota Century is the best buy today?
- Most buyers target VG40 (1997-2017) for value and support. GZG50 V12 is best for collectibility.
- Is the V12 Century reliable?
- Generally yes if maintained, but 1GZ-FE parts and diagnostics can be costly. Buy the best history you can.
- What should I inspect before buying?
- Check rust, air/ride components, cooling, electrical accessories, and verify service records and mileage consistency.
- Are parts hard to get outside Japan?
- VG40 wear items are manageable; trim/electronics can be tough. V12-specific parts may require Japan sourcing.
- How does it compare to a Lexus LS/Celsior?
- Century is more chauffeur-focused and traditional. LS/Celsior is more modern and easier to daily-drive.
- Will values keep rising?
- Clean, original cars trend upward with export demand. Expect strongest gains for low-km V12 and top-condition VG40.
- When is it US-legal to import?
- Under the 25-year rule, eligibility depends on build year. Example: 1997 cars in 2022, 1998 in 2023, etc.
- What options matter most for resale?
- Desirable: low km, original paint, rear comfort options, documented care, and correct period wheels/trim.
Sources & References
Sources (10)
- Toyota Century — encyclopedic overview — WikipediaVerified
- Toyota Century — Japanese encyclopedic overview — Wikipedia (Japanese)Verified
- Toyota GZ engine family (1GZ-FE / 1GZ-FNE V12) — WikipediaVerified
- Toyota Century — model gallery and heritage — Toyota Motor CorporationVerified
- Century vehicle heritage — Toyota global showroom — Toyota Motor CorporationVerified
- Toyota Century Royal — G51 state car (2006–2008) — WikipediaVerified
- 1997 Toyota Century V12 — owner review — Autocar NZVerified
- Rolling like a Very Important Person — Century field report — Stance Is EverythingVerified
- Andrew's Japanese Cars — Toyota Century reference — Andrew's Japanese CarsVerified
- Lexus LS 400 — sibling-platform context for the G50 era — WikipediaVerified
Sources last verified: