1991 Honda Beat, PP1

urchase, if you have the budget, a full repaint will restore it perfectly (repainting in the original red color is the classic choice, but any color is fine. Dark colors like matte black might even be possible with DIY spray painting? A 1/1 actual size plastic model to play with, lol). Mileage verified by the driving management system. The mileage is high but typical for its age? It has been consistently driven every year, a true thoroughbred! For BEAT owners, the timing belt issue has been addressed, with a replacement at 219,186 km. This saves on secondary costs after purchase, meaning no worries about a timing belt break leading to engine blow and replacement costs of over 300,000 yen for a while!? The repair history is minor, with the front core support and right front instrument panel replaced. Also, the weak point, the AC, doesn't work, but it hasn't reached the point of a seized engine due to blown fuses or overheating from a stopped electric fan. The capacitor issue in aging electronic components is: fluid leakage from the capacitors in the engine control unit (ECU), which is vital for driving? This causes the engine check lamp to illuminate (not just limited to BEATs of this era, but sports cars from various manufacturers also face the same problem. Even household PCs can freeze after 10 years in a quiet environment, so it's to be expected for in-car electronic components exposed to vibration, heat, and humidity? Maintenance/overhaul by a civilian electronics expert costs around 30,000 yen, while a new replacement from a dealer can be estimated at over 100,000 yen. I have a later-model, maintained/overhauled ECU in stock. When I swapped it into the early-model current car and test-drove it, the check lamp turned off as usual. Even now, with the check lamp on, the engine starts and revs normally, likely thanks to the correction function. If desired, before you drive it, I can swap in a later-model or maintained/overhauled ECU that I have listed elsewhere, taking the current ECU as trade-in for 20,000 yen and accepting the listed price.) The 3-gauge meters are operating normally. The audio also works. The light engine and suspension are reassuringly standard and unmodded, maintaining the light driving feel envisioned by Honda R&D. Genuine optional equipment: Sky Sound 40W audio deck, Sky Sound on-dash 6 speakers, floor mats, cigarette lighter power socket, ashtray converted to storage compartment, rear spoiler with LED stop lamp, and mudguards. Aftermarket equipment: Leather steering wheel, 14” AW + ST tires, beautiful leather-style seat covers for both seats, DIY rear screen re-covering. Test drives and viewings are highly encouraged to enhance your BEAT ownership experience! Please provide your name, address, contact information, and preferred time via Q&A or (I will not reply publicly; I will contact you directly and provide my availability and personal information). Payment is a fixed price of the winning bid amount + recycling ticket. For those with high car IQ, self-pickup is possible. If the successful bidder arranges for transport, I will facilitate the handover. Inspired by the E07A engine's 656cc displacement, the starting price is ¥345,656. There is no minimum bid or misleading cancellation if the price isn't met; it's a complete sell-off! Enjoy the low center of gravity, light handling, exhilarating full open-top, the sense of accomplishment reaching an 8500 rpm rev limit, the affordable maintenance of a Kei car, its ease of use, and above all, the fact that it's a Honda BEAT! Do you have a HONDA? BEAT is it!!! (Added on May 29, 2026, 10:58 AM) Just now, during a test drive by a visitor, from engine start, it ran smoothly and lightly. While driving through town without using 5th gear, mostly in 4th (at around 4,000 to 5,000+ rpm), the constantly illuminated EG check lamp went out! My hypothesis is that the E07A engine + M-TREC mechanism, upon exceeding the high-rev valve conversion point of 4,500 rpm, received a "stimulus" or "spirit." In any case, as I visually checked the ECU, it's an electronic component that has aged with the vehicle since manufacturing. As mentioned above, I recommend either having it maintained/overhauled or acquiring a fully functional replacement ECU.